Just a few months old, the name of this styley Japanese restaurant translates more or less as ‘ninja’, and is the baby of manager Matt Goring and his co-owner, chef Jeremy Wilson. The latter’s sushi schooling in Japan makes the Karate Kid’s lot sound like a romp through the cherry blossoms. (‘By day he made noodles for money; by night he rolled rice for love.’) On his return to New Zild, Jeremy teamed up with Matt to open Shinobi, in the old Aioli.

It’s very cool. Decked out in red and black, the small space seats around 20. Decorative pieces include some atmospheric wall art (‘borrowed’ from a Yamato subway) recalling the proverb, ‘when human beings approach food / they start to eat / and something happens’.

So, can the white kid slice and roll well enough to compete with the old hands in town? Hai, Grasshopper. The menu lists a dozen different California rolls – most available as either individual hand-rolls ($7–10) or nori-wraps cut into pieces (best shared, $12–16). On the whole they contain fairly typical combos, but sport playful names such as ‘the screaming roll,’ ‘dragonball,’ and ‘Chuck Norris’ (which is named after the man himself – he likes his roll deep-fried and riceless, apparently).

Chalked up on the blackboard were seven choices of fish – plus tiger prawns and two types of roe – fashioned into either sashimi (fine slices) or nigiri (laid over vinegared rice). There were also a few specials, one of which was the caterpillar roll ($17). Having never eaten caterpillar we gave it a whirl. It proved to be a cut sushi roll of eel, surimi and cucumber, shaped into a caterpillar complete with an avocado coat and antenna sprouts. It was quite a sight, and tasted great, drizzled with a ‘secret sauce’ suggestive of honey and soy.

Keen to sample the raw fish, we ordered chirashi, a bowl of rice topped with a selection of sashimi and accompaniments ($23). This was a colourful spectacle: orange tobiko (flying fish roe), pink prawn and tuna, glossy brown unagi (eel), and the whites of warehou and alfonsino. Further pizzazz was added with purple pickle, bright green seaweed, yellow daikon and delectable undied ginger. The flavours in the bowl were mostly subtle, but quite distinct. We thoroughly enjoyed it.

The kara-age chicken ($10) was some of the best we’ve tried and a great way to finish the meal. A generous portion of boneless chicken pieces was dredged through kudzu (a powdered tuberous root) and fried with the flavour and juices sealed in. Served on a ponzu-dressed slaw with lemon wedges and mayo, it was ace.

Shinobi’s food is fresh, delicious and feel-good. It’s also value for money. But these aren’t the only reasons to visit. The music’s good, the drinks list enticing (cocktails, Mike’s organic beer, sake, dependable wines and bubbles), and the ambience A1. They even present a fragrant towelette.

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