Up until a few years ago my yoga school resided above Miyabi Sushi in Willis Street Village. During dinner-time class as I lay flat on the mat, a sweet, soy smell would waft up from below. Breathing deeply, I would try to clear my mind of all thoughts. Fat chance. A plate of sticky teriyaki would slide into view, and I’d wake from my mesmerisation in a pool of drool.

This low-key café remains my favourite local Japanese. Part of its attraction is its location – pretty well tucked away off the street and therefore largely favoured by a loyal clientele who fill its tables day and night. They’re a cross-sectional crowd, from granddad in his Fair Isle jumper, to clutches of Japanese students whose presence lends an air of assurance. With its obligatory wall hangings and a kimono’d figurine on the counter (protectively cocooned in a clear plastic bag), Miyabi is a no-frills eatery, intimate and cheerful, jollied along by owner Mr Chuck, he of the friendly eyes and big smile.

As for the food, what you see is what you get – a universal maxim for the cuisine of Japan, famed for its freshness and simplicity. Miyabi’s photo-menu makes for easy pickings, with every dish clear-cut and labelled. Sharply in focus and printed true colour, laminated food never looked so good.

I usually dismiss the menu and shoot straight for the teriyaki set. For $22 you get a fried fillet (chicken, beef or fish) slathered in sticky-sweet sauce, with steamed rice, refreshing salad and bowl of miso. Excellent value for an ample serve, it’s hard to go past it. But exploring this menu brings yummy rewards. The nigiri sushi plate ($18) comprises an array of super-fresh bite-sized morsels: fish, prawn and omelette atop lightly vinegared rice; plus inari, an inexplicably delicious rice-filled pouch made of fried bean curd. Gyoza ($8.50), those irresistible pork dumplings otherwise known as potstickers, are first steamed then fried, giving their wrappers a lovely chewy texture, while inside the filling is fragrant with coriander and spring onion. Dipped in piquant soy, they are a good reason to be greedy, as is the tempura with its ultra-light batter a paragon of crispiness. And yes, there are endamame, and octopus balls too.

The mains selection features udon and soba noodles all ways, plus a raft of set meals delivered on a tray. Purely for your benefit, Reader, I gave the Katsu curry a whirl. Stripped of authenticity when introduced by the British, the Japanocurry takes the form of a thick, ‘curry powder’ gravy on rice, topped off by a hulking piece of pork schnitzel (‘katsu’ a transliteration of ‘cutlet’). Hearty and satisfying – particularly the super-crunchy crumbed pork – it was a bit flat on the spice front. But at just $17, it’s a good filler-upper. Meanwhile, back to the signature dish – the teriyaki steak was sliced and sauced in its usual deliciousness. Buddied up with a bowl of udon soup ($22), it made a pleasing meal indeed.

As good as ever, Miyabi’s food is fresh, simple and inexpensive. And it’s served with a smile. It makes miso happy!

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