106 Cuba Mall,
Wellington Central
Wellington,
6011

04 3843359

add to my map

Arriving in Wellington last April, The Matterhorn was the place that came up in every conversation about bars I should check out. More than a drinkery, it was described to me as a hub for the city scene. One day, feeling thirsty, I spotted the unassuming sign for it on Cuba Mall, featuring a cup of coffee and a packet of cigarettes. Looking down the insalubrious strip-lit corridor to its doors, I imagined a loveably scuzzy dive bar, a sort of ‘common room’ for the capital.

To my surprise, it turned out to be something else entirely. The main room focuses on being a classy restaurant, rather than a place for casual drinking. I was told that I couldn’t sit anywhere with cutlery laid out if I wasn’t eating. I found myself sidelined around a blind corner, drinking my Mac’s Gold and feeling slightly begrudged. Yes, the décor was lovely – dark wood features, an illuminated garden through the glass at the rear – and the menu looked fantastic (it’s accessible fine dining), but as someone seeking a beer in informal surroundings I didn’t feel very welcome.

A recent visit has gone some way to healing that wound. I found myself on one of the big tables in the heated outdoor space, where the music was louder, the atmosphere was buzzing and drinking was most definitely paramount. This was how I’d imagined The Matterhorn in the first place – alive with artsy, creative people. It’s in this sort of situation that perusing the impressive cocktail menu and 321-strong wine list (a glass ranges from $7.50 to silly money) seems like more fun to me. I’m looking forward to more sessions doing just that.

So I’ve come to realise that the Matterhorn’s iconic place on the scene is because it’s so versatile. Depending on the day, and where you sit, you can have a boozy night, an upmarket meal, a daytime coffee or indeed an evening of good music (there’s live jazz on Thursdays, DJs and sporadic gigs on other nights). This does mean you have to check the calendar before dropping in, and some nights get so busy you can be turned away, but get to know the place and the Matterhorn could easily become a sort of second home, as it has for so many over the years. I get the feeling my relationship with it has just begun.